Tequila may be the face of agave spirits, but it’s far from the whole story. Across Mexico, and beyond, people have been fermenting and distilling the agave plant for centuries, long before tequila had a logo or a law to protect it.
Today, a growing number of drinkers are discovering the broader world of agave spirits: mezcal, raicilla, bacanora, sotol*, and more. Each carries its own identity, shaped by geography, tradition, and the hands of the people who make it. And while tequila has found global fame, its cousins still reflect the rugged, regional roots of Mexican distillation.
This article explores these spirits on their own terms. Not as knockoffs or novelties, but as authentic cultural expressions, with flavors, histories, and techniques worth knowing.
Agave: A Plant With Patience
Before we get to the spirits, it’s worth appreciating the source. Agave isn’t just another crop. It’s a plant that takes years, sometimes decades, to mature. Some varieties grow tall like candelabras, others sprawl low and wide. But all require patience, care, and a good machete.
Most agave spirits are made from the heart of the plant, called the piña. Once harvested, it’s cooked, crushed, fermented, and distilled. But how each step is done depends entirely on where you are and who’s doing the work.
In Jalisco, industrial ovens and roller mills speed things up. In Oaxaca, open-fire pits and stone tahonas slow things down. Neither is wrong, but they lead to very different results.
Tequila: The Global Gatekeeper
Let’s start with the best-known player.
Tequila can only be made from one species: Blue Weber agave. It must come from designated regions, mostly in the state of Jalisco, though a few neighboring states are also allowed. And it must follow regulations enforced by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila (CRT).
There are two types:
- 100% Agave Tequila made entirely from Blue Weber agave
- Mixto is made with as little as 51% Blue Weber agave sugars, with the rest coming from molasses or corn-based sources
The production scale varies wildly. Some producers operate massive distilleries with autoclaves and diffusers, while others still roast their agave in brick ovens. Additive use is also a hot topic, with some brands using sweeteners, glycerin, or coloring agents to soften their product. Movements like Additive-Free Tequila are helping shine a light on who’s making tequila the traditional way.
Tequila comes in five categories:
- Blanco: Unaged or aged under two months
- Reposado: Aged 2–12 months
- Añejo: 1–3 years
- Extra Añejo: 3+ years
- Cristalino: Charcoal-filtered repo or añejo, stripped of color (and often of character)
Tequila may be polished now, but it was born from tradition. And the further you look back, the more rugged and rustic it gets.
Mezcal: Smoke, Earth, and Ancestry
If tequila is the suit-and-tie spirit, mezcal is its bare-footed cousin with dirt under its nails.
Made from dozens of agave species, mezcal is most often associated with Oaxaca, but it’s legally produced in multiple states. Unlike tequila, mezcal is usually cooked in earthen pits, where agave hearts are roasted underground over hot stones, then covered with earth to trap the heat and smoke.
This process imparts mezcal’s signature smoky flavor, but smoke isn’t the point; it’s just a byproduct. True mezcal showcases a range of flavors: roasted fruit, wet stone, green pepper, clay, chocolate, or brine. The variety depends on the agave species, soil, climate, and production method.
Mezcal is often made in small batches, using tools that haven’t changed in centuries. Some distillers still use wooden fermentation vats and copper (or even clay) stills. Labels may list the agave species (Espadín, Tobalá, Madrecuixe, etc.), the producer (maestro mezcalero), and even the village or oven style.
It’s not just a drink. It’s a reflection of landscape and labor.
Raicilla: Wild and Unapologetic
Once dismissed as backwoods moonshine, raicilla has found its voice.
Made in Jalisco but outside tequila’s legal zones, raicilla is crafted from wild agave like Lechuguilla, Maximiliana, and others rarely seen in commercial spirits. The production is often hyper-regional, with distillers using clay or wooden stills and wild fermentation.
Raicilla doesn’t try to be clean or consistent. It leans into its rawness. Some bottles taste like green mango and herbs. Others are peppery, citrusy, or even briny. It’s a wild ride, and that’s the charm.
Legal recognition came in 2019, but raicilla’s culture predates the law. For locals, it was always more than mezcal or less than tequila. It was their spirit, for festivals, family, and nights under the stars.
Bacanora: The Spirit of the Sonoran Desert
Bacanora hails from the rugged state of Sonora, where agave grows under relentless sun and wind. The agave of choice is Agave Pacifica, a hardy plant that thrives in arid, rocky soil.
For much of the 20th century, bacanora was outlawed, a relic of post-revolution restrictions on rural distillation. But it never went away. Locals kept making it in secret, passing bottles quietly between families.
Today, bacanora is legal and celebrated. The production echoes mezcal, with underground roasting and traditional fermentation. But the spirit tastes drier, more mineral-driven, with a savory edge. It’s not as smoky as mezcal, nor as sweet as tequila. It’s desert in a bottle.
Sotol: Not Agave, but Close
Technically, sotol isn’t an agave spirit. It’s made from the Dasylirion plant, also known as desert spoon, which looks similar but belongs to a different family. That said, it’s traditionally made the same way as mezcal and often by the same people.
Sotol comes from Chihuahua, Coahuila, and Durango, where the plant grows wild in the high desert. The resulting spirit is lean, grassy, and green, more vegetal than fruity. Some versions taste like fresh herbs or rain-soaked stone.
Sotol doesn’t get the spotlight, but it deserves one. It’s distilled heritage, bottled in small batches and shaped by some of Mexico’s harshest terrain.
Beyond Borders: Agave Goes Global
The demand for agave spirits has exploded. That’s led to new producers outside of Mexico, some thoughtful, some opportunistic.
You’ll find agave spirits made in the U.S., South Africa, Australia, and even Europe, often using imported agave syrup or piñas. While these can’t legally be called tequila or mezcal, some mimic the traditional methods with care. Others miss the point entirely.
Meanwhile, back in Mexico, the surge in popularity brings challenges. Wild agave takes years to grow, and overharvesting is a growing concern. Sustainable practices and transparency are more important than ever.
Consumers have a role to play. Buy from producers who honor tradition, pay fair wages, and work with biodiversity in mind.
Why These Spirits Matter
Agave spirits aren’t about smoothness. They’re not chasing cocktail trends or mass-market appeal. They’re about people. Land. History. Struggle. Celebration.
Each bottle of mezcal or bacanora or raicilla tells you something real, not crafted in a marketing meeting, but lived and handed down. That might be hard for industrial brands to replicate, but that’s part of the beauty.
You don’t have to be an expert to appreciate it. Just taste. Listen. Learn.
